A Month as Digital Nomads Part 1: Exploring Morocco

Shauna Leff
Mar 30, 2025
11 min read

Updated: Apr 21, 2025

Sun, Souks, and Seascapes

Since my husband and I both work virtually for the most part, when the kids go off to summer camp for a month, we take advantage of the time and become digital nomads—having our own travel and adventure camp. One of my favorite trips was when we took off to Morocco and Portugal for a month. It was truly an amazing experience to have that quality time together. I fell in love with Morocco and I’m already trying to plan a trip back. It was one of those dream-come-true countries on every level.

We went in July. Yes, it’s considered one of the hottest times of year there, reaching up to 114-120 degrees (F). It’s not as bad as you would think since it’s dry heat. You also time out your activities to beat the heat in the middle of the day.

In planning this trip, we decided to start in Morocco and end in Portugal. We had a base itinerary but played it by ear for each part of the trip. All we had booked for this trip when we left was our hotel before and after the trip in Chicago (as we left our car there while we traveled), our flight into Marrakech, and our hotel for the first few nights. We also had our flight back to the States from Lisbon. We met locals and asked lots of questions as we kept moving along in the trip. We literally booked tours, planes, trains, and hotels as we went, sometimes just the night before. It felt nice to be more in the moment and open. As much as I love making travel plans, booking things from a computer is not the same as being in the place and feeling it.

Our Route:

We started in Marrakech and traveled to Fes via a Sahara Desert tour (details below), then took a train to Tangier. We then flew from Tangier to Portugal, starting in Porto and took a train to Lisbon.

A Bonus Layover in Turkey:

On our way to Morocco, we had to stop in Turkey. We arrived at 5 AM and didn’t have a flight out until early evening. We had the chance to explore Istanbul for a few hours as part of a private tour, including having a traditional Turkish breakfast. We did so much in a few hours thanks to Istanbul Layover Tours. I highly recommend doing this tour if you are in the same situation. I should note, we had to apply and get a visa ahead of time to enter into the country.

Part 1 of Our Trip: Morocco

Marrakech (Days 1-4)

We arrived late at night, and our Riad had sent a taxi for us. One thing about Marrakech—there is no shortage of amazing Riads to stay at for all different budgets. We stayed at Riad Olema & Spa (link). We LOVED this place and would stay here again. The interior design was amazing. One of the co-owners, Alexandra, originally from France, has impeccable taste, and every corner was just so chic. Tucked just off a busy cobbled street, a perfect balance of quiet and calm. It was right at the very heart of the Marrakech’s ancient medina at Bab Doukkala, and a 10 minutes’ walk from the famous Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The staff were exceptional. so welcoming and helpful. The food was amazing. I would definitely stay here again! Rooftop patio is great and lots of loungers. The perfect place to stay in Marrakech if you are into more of a boutique hotel experience. Everything at Riad Olema was stunning and promoted a sense of escapism and relaxation amidst a bustling city.

Souks

Marrakech was everything and more than what we had hoped for. It was like a mix of being on the set of Indiana Jones and Romancing the Stone. I absolutely love going to markets anywhere we travel, and Marrakech was a dream come true.

The vibrant Souks (markets) of Marrakech were a shopper’s paradise. If we hadn’t been traveling for over a month and on a tight budget, I could have easily filled up a crate of items for my house and shipped it home - from carpets, tagines, art, antiques, jewelry, spices, shoes, housewares, instruments, clothes and more.

My favorite part of Marrakech was getting lost in the maze of the souks—just not too late at night, which happened to us. The city gates close by 8:30 pm, and as the night progresses, the gates to the souks begin to close as well, making navigation more challenging. We tried walking back to our riad after 10 pm and found that many souks and pathways were shut. If you're not close to your riad and are walking back from Jemaa el-Fnaa, it's best to stick to the main routes or have a backup plan for getting back. If you do get lost, in what may seem like a dark and scary alley, don’t panic. Crime against visitors in Morocco is very rare. Don’t be afraid to just ask for help. Moroccans are very friendly and willing to assist.

My biggest recommendation is to not be afraid to explore and venture into those hole-in-the-wall shops. Eight times out of ten, these shops open into entire new worlds—literally, doors opening to hidden spaces waiting to be discovered. Many of the shop owners keep the lights off until someone enters, so it’s perfectly safe. Just be ready to negotiate a price for anything you'd like to purchase.

Jemaa el-Fnaa square

Another must-do is spending time at Jemaa el-Fnaa square in the evening when the locals come out. It's a vibrant experience but be prepared to stand out as a tourist. You'll be approached by countless vendors trying to sell you something, from fresh juice to food. They can spot you from over 100 feet away, and if you try to take pictures or videos of the music performers or the snake and monkey handlers, they’ll expect a payment.

We befriended someone who worked at our riad and went out with him one evening to the square. It was a completely different experience than when we were on our own, as we weren’t constantly approached to buy things. The locals saw us with him and skipped over us, which made for a much more relaxed time.

Other Highlights

Beyond exploring the souks and enjoying the nighttime energy in Jemaa el-Fnaa square, we also loved:

Le Jardin Secret (link)
The Music Museum/ Musée de la Musique Marrakech (link)
Bahia Palace (link)
The old Jewish quarters, the Mellah of Marrakech (link)
Hammam Treatments at Hammam De La Rose (link)

A little Jewish history:

To be honest, I was not expecting Morrocco to be filled with such Jewish history. As you explore the souks, you will see many antique Jewish items for sale that were left behind from Jews when they left Morrocco for Israel. As you wander about the Secret Garden and Bahia Palace, Jewish symbolism is everywhere - even at the Music Museum, the Jewish community held a strong and culturally rich presence. I found out, the story of Jewish Marrakech begins in 1557 when Sultan Moulay Abdallah established the Mellah, the Jewish quarter. This act, occurring during the tumultuous period of the Spanish Inquisition, offered refuge to fleeing Sephardic Jews. Though Morocco once had North Africa’s largest Jewish population (as many as 300,000 people, 50,000 in Marrakesh alone), numbers drastically fell primarily due to people moving to Israel after its creation. Unofficial figures state that there are less than 3,000 Jewish people left in Morocco today, less than 100 in Marrakesh. As we left Marrakesh, we saw Jewish quarters in many other parts of Morrocco.

Hammams

Another key highlight of our time in Marrakech was having a Hamman treatment- especially after the amount of walking we did. I was tracking my steps and we must have walked 14+ miles daily. We really enjoyed our treatments at Hammam De La Rose. However, you will find there is no shortage of Hammams. They seem to be everywhere. All Moroccans, regardless of social class, visit the hammam once a week. The busiest days are Thursdays and Fridays, before Friday prayers. To learn more about Hammams and to see a list of some of the best in Marrakech, check out this resource (link).

We clearly didn’t have enough time to explore everything in Marrakech and left it open for us to return. After Marrekesh, we needed to make our way up north and booked a Sahara Desert tour to Fes.

4-Day Desert Tour from Marrakech to Fes

This portion of our trip was by far the highlight. We booked last minute with Marrakech Desert Tour (3T Travel). Our guide, Idriss, was fantastic and gave us an incredible mix of tourist sites and local experiences.

Day 1: High Atlas Mountains & Ait Benhaddou

We departed through the High Atlas through the Tizi-n-Tichka pass, along a road that climbs from the plains up to 2260m above sea level passing through small villages. We stopped on the pass for a cup of refreshing mint tea, breakfast and admired the scenery before taking the road to the Ait Benhaddou Kasbah.

Drove through the High Atlas Mountains via the Tizi-n-Tichka pass- a road that climbs from the plains up to 2260m above sea level passing through small villages.
Visited Ait Benhaddou Kasbah (a UNESCO World Heritage site, featured in Gladiator and Game of Thrones)
Stopped at Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate, Africa’s largest movie studio. Our guide was an extra in many of the movies filmed there such as Alladin with Will Smith and walked us around the set. I loved learning that Jewel of the Nile, one of the movies that inspired me to want to travel was filmed there. Our tour guide in Fes became good friends with Michael Douglas while they were in Morocco filming. Other films with sets/props we got to see included Gladiator, Indiana Jones, Kundon, The Mummy, Cleopatra, Prince of Persia and more.
Continued through the Valley of Roses and Dades Valley, staying overnight in the Dades Gorge.

Day 2: Todra Gorge & Sahara Desert

**If you get car sick easily, you may want to ask to sit in the front seat or take a Dramamine before leaving the hotel.

We drove the road of the 1000 Kasbas, going through Tineghier village and Historical Kasbahs arriving to the Todra Gorge, a stunning canyon where locals picnic and cool off in the water. We then had a wonderful lunch at a little hidden gem off the gorge called Maison D’Hotes Anissa.

From there, we made our way to the desert. Rode camels into the Sahara Desert at sunset. We got to get off the camels and climb up the dunes to watch the beautiful sunset. It was magical! See pictures in the gallery below.

Stayed overnight in a luxury desert camp, enjoying a fantastic dinner, drumming and stargazing with our incredible Berber hosts. Our tent was AMAZING with a working bathroom and shower.

Day 3: Merzouga & Rissani

Woke up for sunrise in the Erg Chebbi dunes
More time on camels going back to the base camp
We continued our journey passing through small villages and stopping off to see an oasis in the desert where villagers grow their crops. Watching boys the age of my son come on bikes with a cart on the back to get water for their family was impressive. We learned so much there.
Experienced local Saharan music at Dar Gnawa Khamlia- the ‘Groupe Des Bambaras’. Photos and videos below in the gallery.
Visited Rissani, the first capital of Dynasty Alouite, a historical trade center, visiting the oldest Kasbah and tried the famous Berber pizza. From the eighth to the fourteenth centuries, Rissani served for centuries as the last stop on the great caravan. NOTE- All the sellers are very persuasive. You will be taken to see carpets, that are amazing no doubt. It starts with them offering a cup of mint tea and a nice conversation. Then they start to bring out all the rugs. So, learn to say NO if you do not intend to buy anything.
Our guide had us stop to speak with an apothecary in the market. Next thing you know, they had us sitting down, serving tea, and putting traditional eye makeup that men wear on my husband. My husband ended up having to buy a few things from them to leave.
Stayed at Kasbah Hotel Xaluca (link) – which was a little slice of heaven after being in the desert. It was designed like a Kasbah. My husband is not really a pool guy but was happy to go into this pool to cool off after a few days in the desert.

Day 4: Ziz Valley, Berber villages, and Cedar Forest

Traveled through the Ziz Valley, Berber villages, and Cedar Forest (saw monkeys!)
Stopped for a lovely afternoon stroll, coffee and pastries in such a nice town called le Chamonix. It was such a contrast from what we had experienced in the desert.
Arrived in Fes, where we were dropped off to our Riad. That’s when our 4-day desert trip concluded, and we parted from our amazing guide Idriss.

Fes

We stayed 2 nights in Fes at Riad Mazar. It was a perfect place for us in a great location. Siham who works at Riad Mazar made our time there. If you look up the guest house, you will see everyone comments about Siham in their reviews. She helped us with travel logistics to our next stop (Tangier) and booked us with the most amazing guide to do a walking tour of the old city.

Fes served as the capital of Morocco for more than 350 years and is home to the University of Al Karaouine, the oldest operating university in the world, that was founded by a woman.

We explored the Fes medina with our amazing knowledgable guide, Thami Ktiri (a.k.a. the Candy Man). He has a bag of candy he gives out along the way for the local children and elderly folk. Everywhere we went, he was being hugged and kissed by the masses. He is trusted by the local people, providing you a very authentic experience including:

Visiting a traditional tannery in the heart of the medina to see how they make leather. We bought a bunch of items there including leather and suede jackets and pouffs for our house at an incredible price. They were able to ship it all home for us.
Enjoying an authentic Moroccan feast at a family run restaurant that Thami took us to.
Visited a textile and rug workshop.

If you plan to go to Fes, you should really be sure to book Thami (Tommy) as your guide. You can reach him on What's App at +212 668-359329 or via email at ktirithami@yahoo.fr

Tangier

We took a train from Fes to Tangier, which was super easy and a great experience overall. We loved being in Tangier. It’s a beautiful coastal city. Just walking around and seeing the street performers was great. Since it’s so hot in the day, the whole city comes to life at night. People are out late walking the markets and eating. We found ourselves at a late night outdoor free concert that was packed with families off the water. They seemed to have a few other big stages set up along the water for concerts for the locals. We could hear people out partying all night long.

While in Tangier, we visited the Caves of Hercules and Cap Spartel lighthouse. Along the way, you can stop by a beach and even have a camel ride if you like.

Day trip from Tangier to Chefchaouen – the Blue City

We took a day trip to Chefchaouen, the breathtaking Blue City. We hired a private driver to take us there and back. It is just 2 hours from Tangier.

It’s a mountain village painted in 100 shades of blue – every corner was a different shade to the rest set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Rif Mountains. Chefchaouen traces its origins back to 1471, when it was founded by a community of Jews and Moors seeking refuge from the Spanish Inquisition. There are a few theories on why they painted the city blue. You can read this blog to learn more (link).